Little appreciated by dermatologists, shunned by younger generations who prefer the shower gel, the soap deserves to be rehabilitated. Nothing cleans better than him. Provided you use it wisely and not on all skins.Ariane Le Febvre
No other beauty product approaches us so closely . It slips on the skin, marries the full and hollow of our body, leaving in its path a velvety and fragrant wake that only the most intimate can breathe. From Marseille soap, which smells clean and fresh, to "cosmeto" soaps, through aromatherapy ranges, it comes in an infinite variety of shapes, scents and colors. If it has long suffered from a bad reputation (the soap abyss and scours the skin ...), we now know that associated with a moisturizing body care, it is the most sensual and the most natural daily care.
Are there any real differences between soaps?
This word can refer to four different products. The traditional soap, or toilet soap, is obtained after a saponification reaction of an animal fat (tallow, lard) or vegetable (olive oil for Marseille soap) on a mineral base (soda or potash). The surgras soap is a traditional soap enriched with nourishing agents (sweet almond oil, shea butter ...), but in limited quantity (not more than 10%), otherwise it loses its foaming power. Liquid soap (not to be confused with washing cream or shower gel) is always soap. The only difference is that it is more diluted, contains more water and a little more additives (texture agents, anti-scale agents such as ethylene diamine tetra-acetic acid or EDTA ...).
Dermatological bread, also called soap-free soap or syndet, is made from synthetic washing agents (surfactants). Up to 25% of other compounds, superfatting or active, can be incorporated. Its foaming power is weaker.
Can all skins use soap?
A traditional soap always pulls the skin a little. If it is too detergent, it can remove the hydrolipidic film. But he is not the only one responsible: the high temperature of the water and its limestone content are also guilty. Also, it is better to apply, after the toilet, a moisturizing milk or a vegetable oil. If your skin is sensitive, if you have skin problems, use a dermatological bar. If you have dry skin or if you are over 70 (skin dries over time), prefer overgrown soap. If you have no problems, the traditional soap is perfect for the body, but prefer a dermatological bread or a specific product for the face.Forget a little "cult of pH". "An acidic pH or alkaline does not mean that a preparation will be irritating to the skin, says Pierre Grascha, research and development director DEB Group Ltd. The pH alone is not not enough indication to choose a soap, too many elements modify it in a formula (perfumes, surfactants, preservatives ...) Especially, the mention "neutral pH" is a chemical term that has nothing to do with the safety
In addition, the skin has an excellent buffering capacity: it will correct itself its pH. " Prefer soaps containing washing agents of vegetable origin (olive, palm, cotton, sweet almond ...), and non-synthetic (surfactants) or animal oils (watch the mentions on the cases "without animal fat" ). Prefer formulas without perfumes or dyes (they bring nothing in terms of efficiency), or preservatives (absent in traditional soaps or surgras).